The Dormeuse Cap

Isabella Beetham was particularly skilled at capturing the fussy costume details of her female sitters as evidenced by this profile painted around 1790. With her hair styled in a chignon with a ringlet falling over her shoulder, the sitter wears a dress with a puffed-out buffon to cover her décolletage. It is though the fabulous dormeuse cap that draws the eye with its layered frilled edging and spotted ribbon bows.

Painted on card the silhouette is finished with Mrs Beetham’s distinctive double-loop concavity bust-line. It is housed in the original turned fruitwood frame with the artist’s trade label (no. 5). Apart from very light age-toning, the silhouette is in fine condition.

Isabella Beetham (1754-1825) began cutting silhouettes to support her young family. Her husband meanwhile dabbled in many trades from acting to inventing a washing machine. In the early 1780s Mrs Beetham had painting lessons from the miniaturist John Smart and thereafter began painting profiles in a more accomplished style. Her work is well-considered and is sought by collectors.

This silhouette was purchased by Mrs Christie in November 1943 for £5 10s from W. J. (Polly) Perkins (showing on the original receipt – receipt not included with the sale). Perkins had been a money lender in the City. He lived in a tiny house near Old Street Station and travelled all over England to attend auction sales in the hope of finding silhouettes to sell on to collectors. He only added on a modest amount on top to cover his train fare and his daily booze! Perkins hit hard times in later life and during his seventies resorted to finding a job as a night watchman.